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6005 Shorts
PATTERN
LENGTHENING
OR
SHORTENING
THE
1 Front pant 2x
2 Back pant 2x
3 Front waist band 2x
4 Back waist band 2x
5 Front Facing 2x
6 Underlap 2x
7 Pocket pouch 1x
8 Pocket pouch 1x
9 Pocket welt 2x
10 Pocket 1x
11 Cover 2x
12 Front belt 2x
13 Back belt 2x
PATTERN PIECES
Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5’ 6” (168 cm). If
you are taller or shorter, you may adjust the pattern to fit
your size at the lines marked "lengthen or shorten here".
Thus the fit is preserved.
Make sure that you adjust all pieces of one model by the
same amount at the same lines.
How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:
Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.
To
lengthen
, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as
far apart as necessary.
To
shorten
, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as
far as necessary. Even out the side edges.
Paper cut for US Letter (8 ½” X 11”) (German DIN
A4) prints
:
The patterns are printed out on 16 sheets with a thin
frame. Wait, until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the
sheets so that they fit together (see extra page with the
overview of the prints). Cut off the single sheets on the
upper and right edge along the thin frame lines. Begin
with the left lower sheet and then glue the parts in the
frame lines together precisely.
Select your size according to the Burda size chart:
Dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to the bust
size; trousers and skirts according to the hip width.
Change the patterns according to size if necessary, to fit
your measurements if they deviate from the Burda size
chart.
CUTTING OUT
FOLD (– – – –) means:
here is the center of a pattern
piece but never a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be
cut double, with the fold line forming the center line.
Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the
cutting diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric.
The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how
the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.
For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned
to the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right
sides are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the
left side. The pattern pieces that are shown in the cutting
diagram, extending over the fold of the fabric, should be
cut last from a single layer of fabric.
Cut out the pattern according to your size.
Upper waist band edge = 1 3/5”(4 cm) below the waist.
Sizes
36 to 46:
In part 1 mark the buttonholes and the
stitch line at the same width to the side edge and upper
pant edge as size 34 mark. In part 3 and 12 mark the
buttonhole at the same width to the edges as size 34.
SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are
included on an average:
3/4” (2 cm) for the hem, 5/8” (1.5 cm) for all edges and
stitches. Use BURDA carbon paper to transfer all pattern
lines and markings to the left side of the fabric pieces.
You will find instructions in the packet.
Interfacing
Cut interfacing according to the drawing and
press onto the left fabric side
SEWING
When sewing the right fabric sides are
facing.
Transfer all lines on the pattern using a
basting stitch to the right fabric side.
SHORTS
Bound pocket /right front pant
Press a strip of interfacing onto the wrong
side of the fabric of the right front pant piece
over the marked lines of the pocket. (drawing
2).
Important for sizes
36 to 46
: Draw in lines
between the end marks of the pocket on the
front left pant leg. Between those lines, draw
the cutting line, around 1/2” (1.3 cm) shorter
at each end. Transfer lines to right side of
fabric using basting stitches.
1)
Baste pocket welts onto both sides of the
cutting edge of the front pant piece and stitch
using 3/8” (0.7 cm). Secure seam ends.
2)
Cut pant piece between the stitching lines
along the cutting marks and cut diagonally
coming close to the last stitching line,
forming little triangles. Don't cut into the
piping tapes. Press the piping tapes onto the
seam.
3)
Turn the piping inwards and baste,
approach from the right side, to make them
of equal width and make them cover the
cutting. Press.
4)
Baste pocket pouch (piece 8) in such a
way onto the left fabric side, that the even
edge above the seam will be positioned
below the piping.
5)
Stitch exactly along the seam of the
bottom piping, approaching from the right
side. Thereby stitching the pocket pouch.
Press pocket pouch downwards.
6)
Pin the other pocket pouch onto the upper
pant edge so that the bottom and side edges
of the pocket pouches lay on top of each
other. Approaching from the right, stitch
along the seam of the upper piping, thereby
closing the pocket pouch (see drawing 5).
7)
Fold the triangles at the cutting ends
inwards. Baste pocket pouches one on top of
the other, cut, trim and stitch them together
one on top of the other starting at the bottom
pocket pouch; thereby beginning or ending at
the seam of the upper piping. Stitch through
the triangles.
8)
Pin
Darts
of the back pant pieces and
stitch peaked. Knot threads. Press darts
towards the center back.
Pocket /left back Pant piece
9)
Neaten pocket edges. Fold and press the
allowances of the upper edges, Stitch. Fold
and baste the allowances of the bottom
edges, press.
10)
Baste pocket, meeting the line (where the
pocket flap piece will be attached), onto the
left back pant piece and topstitch narrowly.
Pocket Flap
11)
Pin pocket flap pieces on top of each
other, right sides facing, baste edges on top
of each other according to the drawing and
stitch. Trim allowances and cut corners
diagonally. Turn flap. Baste edges, press and
topstitch the edges.
12)
Stitch flap with upper side facing right
side of pants, along the marked line. Secure
seam ends. Press cover downwards (12a).
Button facings
13)
Baste facings for buttons onto the front
pant piece, right sides facing (seam 1) and
stitch. Secure seam ends. Baste underlap onto
the back pant pieces, right sides facing (seam
2) and stitch. Secure seam ends. Press pieces
in each case onto the beginning seam and
neaten the other long trimming and underlap
edge.
Side seams
14)
Position front pant pieces onto the back
pant pieces, right sides facing, baste side
seams from the slit mark all the way down
(seam 4) and stitch. Secure seam ends. Clip
the back pant parts along the underlap close
to the stitching line (arrow 14a).
15)
Neaten allowances and press apart, fold
and baste the facing of the front pant piece
inwards. Baste the facing of the underlap
along the fold line inwards. Press edges.
Stitch back pant pieces along the underlap
beginning seam, thereby including the inner
edge.
16)
Stitch the front pant pieces according to
the drawing, thereby stitch the facing. Do
NOT
include the underlap. Sew the
buttonholes. Pin slit and stitch along the
diagonal bottom stitch line, through both the
facing and the underlap.
Inside pant leg seams
17)
Fold pant legs lengthwise, right side
inwards. Baste inside pant legs (seam 5) and
stitch. Trim allowances and press apart.
Front center seam
18)
Turn one pant leg inside out. Move pant
legs, one inside the other, right fabric sides
must be facing.
19)
Stitch center seam along the front upper
edge to the inside pant leg seams. Secure
seam ends. Trim allowances.
Front waistband
20)
Baste front waistband including
interfacing onto the front pant pieces (seam
1) and stitch. Press allowances inwards
towards the waistband.
21)
Fold and press the allowances of the
bottom edge at the other front waistband
(without interfacing). Pin this waistband on
top of the already stitched waistband, right
sides facing. Baste upper and side edges on
top of each other. Trim allowances, cut
corners diagonally.
22)
Turn waistband. Baste edges, press and
stitch narrowly all around, thereby stitching
the inner half of the waistband. Sew the
buttonholes.
23)
Baste back waistband pieces including
the interfacing onto the back pant pieces
(seam 3) and stitch. Press allowances inwards
towards the waistbands.
Center Back Seam
24)
Move the pant legs (one folded inside
out), one inside the other one. Baste the
center back seam (also at the waist) and
stitch. Neaten allowances and press apart
starting from the top to the beginning of the
rounded part (crotch). Position the back
waistband pieces (without interfacing) on top
of each other, right sides facing, sew center
back seam.
Double the back waistband
according to the
text and drawing numbers 21 and 22.
Belt
25)
Position the front and back parts of the
belt on top of each other, right sides facing,
baste edges on top of each other and stitch,
thereby leaving an opening to reverse the
belt. Baste edges, press and stitch narrowly.
Sew the buttonholes into the front part of the
belt.
26)
Pin the back part of the belt, meeting the
lines, onto the back waist band, pin the ends
to the extension of the underlap seam. Apply
BUTTONS, fitting the buttonholes, onto the
underlap and the back waistband. Button up
the slit, and fix and button up the front part of
the belt onto the waistband.
Pant cuff
27)
Neaten bottom pant edge, fold inwards
and baste along the CUFF FOLD LINE,
press and stitch.
28)
Turn the bottom pant edge outside along
the HEM FOLD LINE. Baste cuff, press, and
possibly secure with some stitches on inner
and outer leg seam..
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